Edith Head’s favorite director was Alfred Hitchcock and “To Catch A Thief” is said to be Edith Head’s all-time favorite film. She designed this casual coral blouse and skirt when Grace Kelly requested that she wear a dress rather than pants for the picnic scene with Cary Grant. Note Grace Kelly’s signature matching silk scarf.

Somehow this just makes me want to clean out my closet and start fresh.

 I love the dropped-waist/skirt ruffle on these Betsy Johnson tops from her Alley Cat days. I always thought it was called a peblem waistline, but now I’m not sure.

 Scarlett’s Closet has a terrific reference page for fashion newbies.  Listed under “Waistline” are -

Antebellum - Dress has natural waistline that dips two inches to a point in the center front.

Basque (Bosk) - Waistline of dress is two inches below the natural waist; dipas to a point in the center front and back.

Curved Basque - Similar to Basque, though rounded at the center front. Also known as Antebellum.

Empire (Om Peer) - High waisted with short bodice. Skirt begins two or more inches above natural waist.

Peblum - Short flounce or overskirt attached at waistline.

Shirred (sherd) - Fabric is gathered to make a horizontal panel.

So I guess the Betsy Johnson waistline would be Curved Basque with a peblum.

But what I didn’t know is that the word peblum has an entirely different meaning. According to RocketJones -

Peblum, literally, is the short skirt worn by ancient gladiators, but it’s also used to describe a genre of movies. Although generically it refers to any heroic fantasy movie set in ancient times (Hercules, Atlas, Jason, etc.), specifically the term applies to the movies made in Italy during the 50’s and 60’s.

(Gladiator photo from IMDB)

Looks like it’s time to pull out the big belts from the back of the closet.

I’d been noticing lots of high cinched waists recently, and then saw this article in yesterday’s Times Online. Nicola Copping refers to the recent economic downturn and  asks:

But what about fluctuating waistlines? Granted, they expand in times of plenty. But is the steadily rising beltline another indicator of a move towards modesty, both economic and sartorial? Perhaps, if recent catwalk shows are anything to go by.

Copping mentions the 50’s and 70’s:

High waists hark back to two seminal fashion eras: the prim, suck-it-in-and-smile Fifties (skirts), and the slick Seventies (trousers). Michael Kors evokes the latter with an upmarket twist: think West Coast lady who lunches, a woman never seen with skin protruding from her high-slung pants. Marc Jacobs, meanwhile, prefers his catwalk muse more unhinged. The pleated skirts are nipped in neatly but messy hair suggests something a little off-key: this is Stepford Wife with a Noughties edge.

But what about the 1500’s?

Perhaps it has something to do with the economy, and maybe a little bit to do the movies.  Kate Blanchett,  Natalie Portman and Scarlett Johansson  all squeezed into tight corsets for their recent royal roles. 

Now you can find this DOLCE & GABBANA Belt/Corset on YOOX.COM Interestingly, it comes in sizes 2, 4, and 6!