Katwise :: Crazyquilt Traveling Coat

Maya Frost, in her book The New Global Student: Skip the SAT, Save Thousands on Tuition, and Get a Truly International Education, inspires students to step off the college-prep treadmill and take a different path, one that opens the mind to endless possiblities around the world. Kat O’Sullivan took that leap when she finished high school after two years and set out on a hitchhiking adventure that seems like it never ended. She sews the most amazing one-of-a-kind reconstructed sweaters using recycled materials and found fabrics. Most of the items for sale at her Etsy shop are special orders, but she says there will be new items posted Saturday night. Keep an eye out!

Victoria Beckham :: Fashion Designer

Of course I love Victoria Beckham’s new fashion line! And even though I’ll miss Paula on American Idol, I’ll be looking forward to seeing this each week. I see Elle Macpherson loves VB’s line, too. This trend towards 50’s fashion has been around a while. It’s always been my favorite era. Even more than the 60’s style of Mad Men which is so fashionable today.

I found Samantha Cole London over at Fashionspace and I see that she likes the puffy shirt, too. A graduate of the London School of Fashion, SCL is based in London.

SCL is currently focused on developing her womenswear brand that caters to image conscious, confident, independant discerning women who dare to be different, set-apart, unapologetic and enjoy a cosmopolitan lifestyle.

It seems no matter how much I try to add color to my wardrobe, I always come back to black and white. SCL has taken B&W to new heights!

• SCL at MySpace
• SCL Facebook Group

Built By Wendy is a NYC-based line of men’s and women’s clothing and accessories. Founder, Wendy Mullin grew up in Chicago where she learned to sew from her mother and her grandmother. I first learned about Wendy from her Sew U books. I definitely looking forward to seeing more of the Fall ‘08 Collection, which according to a review in the New York Post, is inspired by Stockholm and the Alps — think “The Sound of Music.” According to Ms. Mullin, “the vibe is about family, the cozy feeling you have when you see your family during the holidays.”

I was just reading about the fashion influence of Mad Men - particularly the popular Wiggle Dress style and I was reminded of this cute Pop Dress from Desira Pesta which I came across yesterday over at Etsy.

Desira Pesta uses top quality fabrics sourced from the best NYC designer fabric stores in the Garment District, including bamboo, organic cotton, satins, and beautiful cottons. She also uses materials acquired from estate sales and antique shops. Each piece has been professionally-constructed using industrial machines and perfect sewing, ensuring longlastingness and beautiful craftswomanship.

Visit her website and online shop and I dare you not to be inspired by this woman’s creativity!

I found Romanian designer Alina Cosma’s Party Noire line of black dresses over at FashionDerek. Her styles remind me of my mother’s Vogue Patterns that I recently found in the basement. My sewing machine sits idle in the dining room right now, but I intend to fire it up once the kids start back to school with these dresses as inspiration.

Thehiddenwardrobe is  another terrific site to find the work of new designers including feegee. The Chloe dress (above) comes from their debut collection “Urban Elegance.” I love the 20’s flapper influence and the hand-dyed fabrics. And each piece is one-off!

A bit about feegee -

Seraphina has been designing and making one-off pieces for independent boutiques in Cornwall and London since she graduated 3 years ago, also running stalls at Camden and Spitalfields.

Keen to develop the designs, she teamed up with sister Tamsin and together they launched feegee at the beginning of 2008 from their dressmaking studio in North London. The feegee look is inspired by a need to marry style with comfort. The pieces are always easy to wear,  adaptable, perfect for layering but strong enough to wear alone. (read more)

Winnie ‘Mauvette’ Lee and Jan ‘Philip’ Vincent joined forces to create design label, Mauvette Philips. According to UrbanJunkies,

The duo have extensive textile design experience between them. Lee has worked for Rebecca Taylor, Mark Whittaker and Megan Park. Vincent has designed for Topshop, Toast by Post, Etro and Betty Jackson. Original prints in the collection are designed by Vincent which are entirely painted by hand. The hand embroidery is either sampled by Lee or passed onto embroiders known as ‘Karigars’ in India. Now in their fifth season, Mauvette Phillip’s inspiration is drawn from antique brocades and decorative patterns. By fusing contemporary prints with contrasting fabrics using handicrafts and beading, a modern look with a bohemian touch is created.

I had never heard of ‘karigars’ until I read this, so I did a quick search and found that ‘karigar’ means ‘artisan’. Many of these embroiderers are protected under the International Fair Trade Association, but others continue to work in crowded and unhygienic shops for little pay.

Mauvette Philips is available online at Waywardrobe. I only wish the site had a better zoom feature so we could really see the beadwork detail and hand embroidery on this beautiful bohemian-style dress.

• Mauvette Philips
• Waywardrobe

Spring can’t come soon enough to NEPA. It’s still in the 40’s here! But I refuse to wear my winter coat. In fact, I’m retiring it very soon. I’d love to have a coat like this one from Vilnius-based designer, Giedrius Crkauskas, and owner of Lino kopos (Linen Dunes), a design studio and retail store which offers linen indoor and outdoor wear for different seasons.

The designer, whose been working exclusively with linen for five years, makes use of different thickness of yarn, pattern of weave, and the degree of finish or roughness to produce anything from a linen bra to an outdoor coat. Convertible designs and padded items extend the linen season far beyond summer, while apparent drawbacks of natural fabric, like wrinkles with some ingenuity have been turned into hip features. Linen accessories and amber jewelery (both, for women and men) by Giedrius complete the cool look. (read more)

And this from Riga Fashion Week -

The designer, who has no formal education in fashion design, emerged on to the local scene in 1995. His first collection featured diverse fabrics, not just linen. In 2001 he opened a studio with a vision: to offer only linen garments. Born deaf, the designer seems to be indifferent to the jarring notes of eccentric synthetic or mixed fabrics. Instead, he is drawn by the secrets of the apparently inconspicuous and low-key linen a sublime material for him. He is convinced that it has a beneficial effect on the human body and even on the soul, and will not tolerate any additions to the natural fibre.

He only uses Lithuanian linen for his garments, and the choice is incredible, with over 20 weavers operating locally. He works in a very wide range of cloths, from the very thin, cobweb-like variety (100g per square metre) to the rugged, substantial crash, or canvas (480g per square metre).

I couldn’t resist. Here’s another linen coat. Click through the link on the photo to see a larger version with the great detail on the belt and even more linen wear from Giedrius.

More from Vilnius:

• Lithuanian Designers  – chic shopping in Vilnius
• Laimikis – Vilnius Street Fashion
• Baltic Amber Shop - necklaces, bracelets, rings

(And by the way, the weather in Vilnius was also in the mid-40’s the last time I checked.)

Edith Head’s favorite director was Alfred Hitchcock and “To Catch A Thief” is said to be Edith Head’s all-time favorite film. She designed this casual coral blouse and skirt when Grace Kelly requested that she wear a dress rather than pants for the picnic scene with Cary Grant. Note Grace Kelly’s signature matching silk scarf.

Somehow this just makes me want to clean out my closet and start fresh.

In keeping with my historical theme of last week, I couldn’t wait to post these two bags from Pursecution. This Minneapolis-based designer uses hides of leather, fabric and antique brass bits to create beautiful one of a kind bags and leather accessories.

On the top is the Joan of Arc bag:

This is the first of a new line/slate for Pursecution. Who better to start with than Joan of Arc? How does one sum up the life of such a young and powerful woman in this limited space? From the age of 12 until the age of 19, when she was burned at the stake for a trumped up charge of heresy, Joan of Arc followed her own head strong path, making history with every step. This purse has been designed with her strength, beauty and grace in mind. It is 100% genuine leather with a sateen interior. The dimensions are 11″ wide, 7.5″ tall and 2″ deep.

On bottom is the Mary Queen of Scots bag:

Mary Stuart’s life had all the elements of a Hollywood movie 400 years ago. There was romance, murder, scandal and finally her beheading by Queen Elizabeth I. Although Mary Queen of Scots may not have succeeded as the Queen of Scotland, her beauty, strength and grace were world renowned. This purse has been modeled after such assets. The top is made of 100% genuine leather, the interior of cotton, and the bottom half of the exterior is from a fine upholstery fabric.

You can find Pursecution on the web at Indiepublic or MySpace.  

I love the dropped-waist/skirt ruffle on these Betsy Johnson tops from her Alley Cat days. I always thought it was called a peplum waistline, but now I’m not sure.

Scarlett’s Closet has a terrific reference page for fashion newbies.  Listed under “Waistline” are -

Antebellum – Dress has natural waistline that dips two inches to a point in the center front.

Basque (Bosk) – Waistline of dress is two inches below the natural waist; dipas to a point in the center front and back.

Curved Basque – Similar to Basque, though rounded at the center front. Also known as Antebellum.

Empire (Om Peer) – High waisted with short bodice. Skirt begins two or more inches above natural waist.

Peplum – Short flounce or overskirt attached at waistline.

Shirred (sherd) – Fabric is gathered to make a horizontal panel.

So I guess the Betsy Johnson waistline would be Curved Basque with a peplum.

But what I didn’t know is that the word peplum has an entirely different meaning. According to RocketJones -

Peblum, literally, is the short skirt worn by ancient gladiators, but it’s also used to describe a genre of movies. Although generically it refers to any heroic fantasy movie set in ancient times (Hercules, Atlas, Jason, etc.), specifically the term applies to the movies made in Italy during the 50’s and 60’s.

(Gladiator photo from IMDB)

The Telegraph had an article about Stella McCartney at the Paris Fashion Show last week. Although I’m not crazy about this particular frock, I’ve always been drawn to the time of castles and kings.

From the Telegraph:

McCartney offered an ode to the modern medieval woman with long cloaks and cardigan coats in wool-felt, handmade by village artisans in Somerset, which were printed with heraldic symbols and faux coats-of-arms. Blanket-inspired knits, in earth-toned stripes enfolded the body. Suits and coats with wide, kimono-sleeves were in the same wool-felt, in muted charcoal and metallic silver… (more)

Need accessories? Here’s a chain maille dice pouch bag for dungeons and dragons fans. I’d use it for money, lipstick and car keys.  You can see more of Janine’s metalwork at her shop – Athena’ sArmoury.

Turn any outfit into a regal affair with this ”Young Elizabeth“ collar made from a mix of soft mohair yarn and chenille yarn. It comes from the studio of Ellita, a group of artists skilled in all crafts of life. One is a dreamer and another is a weaver. One is a thread knitter and another is leather knotter. See more at their shop – Ellita’s Flying Snail.

This jacket was featured in the latest issue of Altered Couture and included the how-to by designer Jude Mowris of StrawMountainStudio.com.

This repurposed jacket, size medium, has been dyed raspberry and has vintage lace on collar, shoulders, cuffs, jacket front and back. It is further enhanced with pearl-like beading.

Recycled…Always one of a kind.

I love this jacket! You can see purchasing details for this jacket here. However, I recommend you pick up the magazine if only just to see the lovely lace “New Mexican Sunset” design on the back. 

I couldn’t resist posting ths pretty coral vest, also from StrawMountainStudio.com.  This just makes me want to get my hands on some lace and dye.

Another layered skirt is featured here with the wedding dress that won Grand Prize in Ithaca’s (NY) 2006 eco-fashion design contest. It was designed and made by Alice Fogel of Lyric Couture. Alice, shown above, made the dress from 22 tailored cotton shirts she bought for $1.50 a pound. (The photographer is Marty Luster.)

The grand prize winner of the 2007 contest was a team of Cornell University employees who called themselves “Coco Cornell.” They won with an evening dress covered in tiers of shredded paper. (The model is LeighAnn Sullivan and the photographer is Lindsay France.)

There is still time to enter the 2008 contest. Deadline is March 1st and entry forms can be downloaded here at Sew-Green.org.  And in case the sheer creative challenge isn’t enough to get you motivated, here are the facts from the contest’s entry form.

The ubiquitous T, icon of freedom and self-expression, is not the benign item it appears to be. Conventional cotton is the most toxin-intensive fiber on earth. It requires 1/3 pound of pesticides and herbicides to produce the cotton used in a typical t-shirt, and about 3/4 pound of toxins for the average pair of conventional denim blue jeans. Dyes and finishing add more toxic chemicals. Enter the contest and show how existing Ts, jeans, and other cotton materials can be reused as new fashions, quilts, bags, whatever! Surprise us!

Thank you, Wendy Skinner, for the photos and information.

Isn’t this a great skirt? It comes from Poltock & Walsh, a London based design duo.  They were New Gen winners at London Fashion Week (applications only accepted from those designers who’ve been in business three years or less.)

For more inspiration you can visit them on the web at poltockandwalsh.com. 

I was exploring the free patterns at BurdaStyle tonight and came across this cute red dress – perfect for Valentine’s Day! It reminds me of the Janis Joplin dress I posted on Tuesday. The designer, Casey, blogs at Elegant Musings.

I love how she modified this Lydia tee shirt pattern (which you can download here for free).

Slate featured Telfar in this article about the seedy underbelly of NY Fashion during Fashion Week. I’m open to new ideas, but this one I just don’t get.

The story in the Daily Mail is about JK Rowling’s technicolor coat, but I just love Twiggy’s “mod” jacket with the lace from the blouse at the wrists.

It reminds me of this great Ermina “reinvention” jacket by fofolle.